Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Sunday

Ah Sunday! The good Lord has it right - Sunday should be a day of rest. Life on a sailboat tends to be a 24 x 7 adventure. There are always boat jobs to be done or supplies to get. So it is nice to try to take a real break once a week, put all those jobs and must-do's aside, and enjoy where you are. Such was our start last Sunday. I slept in to the glorious hour of 7:30 and woke to a blue sky and sunshine. Normally I am up at 6:30 listening to the weather nets - but the weather can wait until Monday. We have a leisurely breakfast, then relax in the cockpit with a cup of coffee, reading the latest sailing news. Life is good. The local yacht club puts on a Sunday lunch here in St. Lucia and there is the promise of a domino game with other yachties after lunch.

All looks promising - until we are getting ready to go to the club and Karen announces that the head pump is leaking. The pump is not just leaking - it is gushing stuff that really should go overboard - into our bilge! Our boat takes on a certain odour reminiscent of our trip through the volcano. I announce to Karen that a pump rebuild is required. So much for the afternoon as I haul out the pump rebuild kit instead of the domino game. I know this pump. I installed this pump. And I know that I have to disassemble half the bathroom to get at this pump. I do not look forward to it. Karen makes lunch before I start as it will be a long day. After lunch, I notice the storm clouds building. Gone is the blue sky as rain showers appear on the horizon. Great, not only do I have to fix the head pump, but I have to do it in a closed-up, hot boat as rain settles in for the afternoon. Fortunately, my nose decides to take a holiday after about 10 minutes and I cannot smell what I am worki
ng on. Karen has to retreat to the fresh air of the wet cockpit. The job proceeds (bad pun). About 4:00, I finish cleaning the pump and can now start the reassembly. I have more cuts on my hands than fingers and sweat is continuously dripping from my brow. I test the pump. It leaks at a different spot. I pull out the pump again and apply silicone sealant to anything that is supposed to seal. Back goes the pump. The test is successful. It is now after 5:30. I have been going continuously since 12:30 and am beat. I shower, apply antibiotic cream all over my hands and settle back on the settee as Karen cleans up and prepares dinner. Friends call on the radio to ask why we missed the dominoes game. Sympathy is extended and plans made instead for the next day. Cruising - what a life!

Friday, January 19, 2007

St. Lucia

We got our tour. One thing we find helpful when trying to sort out a new island is to arrange for a tour. We were lucky as our friends on Paramour III arrived at the same time and could recommend a local guide. Even better, they came with us.  Linus was available on Thursday so off we went. After traveling on taxis of various vintages on other islands, we were surprised when Linus showed up with a new Toyota mini-van - luxury. Even the AC worked! (At least, Linus offered it but we didn't try it as we prefer the breezes.)  We drove down the island from Rodney Bay, first passing through Castries, the main city and cruise ship port. We plan to go on a day trip by bus to Castries in a few days.  The bus is about a $1. The drive down the coast has enough twists and turns to break a snakes back. In fact, you can motor on a sailboat down the coast faster than you can drive it. But the roads are paved and good.

Our next stop was the fishing village of Anse La Raye, where we picked up some trinkets from the lovely ladies at the booths - who can resist someone who calls you sweetie. Then we were off to Diamond Falls and the botanical gardens where Josephine (Napoleon's Squeeze) bathed in the medicinal waters. We were already wet from the tropical showers (it is a rain forest) so passed on the bathing bit. We drove through the center of a volcano, complete with bubbling springs and sulphurous belches. It is the only drive-through volcano in the Caribbean. We had to go. For lunch, we went to Dasheen - a luxury resort on the side of a mountain. Now you have to picture this - we are now 1000 feet above the water, perched on the side of a cliff (you look over your table and you look down and and down and see little boats anchored in the little bay) and directly on each side of us is a Piton, rising 2100 feet out of the water. It was an incredible view. What a lunch stop! So a few hours later, nicely full and relaxed, Linus wound us back to Rodney Bay and our awaiting dinghies.

There is lots to see and do in St. Lucia. Tourism is their number one moneymaker (next is bananas)and they are serious about offering lots of value for visitors. The people are friendly and the island is beautiful. They should do well.

Tour done, it's back to boat jobs for me.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Underway

Well, we made the break from Tyrrel Bay. Said our good byes, promised to come back in April and checked out. The weather looked good for the next few days and boats were departing for different regions. We decided to "yellow flag" it North to hopefully St. Lucia. Yellow Flag means that when we reach a new country, we do not go ashore or check in. We fly the yellow quarantine flag so officially we are still underway.

After changing Vagus over from a harbour boat to an offshore boat, we went all of 11 miles on Saturday to Chatham Bay, on the west side of Union Island, St. Vincent. The next day, we had a great 30 mile close hauled sail (no tacks) to Admiralty Bay in Bequia. The anchorage, however, was rolly, very rolly - the kind of roll where you feel your bones lagging your body while lying in bed. We did not sleep much. The weather was still holding so we got up early the next morning to go to St. Lucia, about a 60 mile trip. We left at the break of dawn, sailed to St. Vincent, motored up the lee side of St. Vincent, then sailed the thirty mile crossing to St. Lucia. The St. Vincent / St. Lucia crossing is one of the roughest on the trip North. We had a perfect day for it. It was a bit bouncy for the first 5 miles, then the seas dropped and we sailed directly to the Pitons at St. Lucia (no tacks). We had planned to check in at Soufriere. But when we arrived, we found the moorings near t
he town full (you have to take a mooring) and the East winds had brought a distinct sulphurous odour to the area. We decided to keep going to Rodney Bay, about 15 miles up the coast. We reached the Bay about 5:00pm, just before sunset, dropped anchor at the back of the pack and had an early night. We were tired after traveling for 11 hours. The next morning we checked in and moved Vagus to the other side of the Bay, near Pigeon Island to get out of the roll. Now we are happily anchored just off a luxury Sandals resort - check them out on their web site. It looks like a great resort. We can even use their facilities for the day for $100US per person - I don't think so! Our anchor is firmly set and it is time for a little exploration.

Underway

Well, we made the break from Tyrrel Bay. Said our good byes, promised to come back in April and checked out. The weather looked good for the next few days and boats were departing for different regions. We decided to "yellow flag" it North to hopefully St. Lucia. Yellow Flag means that when we reach a new country, we do not go ashore or check in. We fly the yellow quarantine flag so officially we are still underway.

After changing Vagus over from a harbour boat to an offshore boat, we went all of 11 miles on Saturday to Chatham Bay, on the west side of Union Island, St. Vincent. The next day, we had a great 30 mile close hauled sail (no tacks) to Admiralty Bay in Bequia. The anchorage, however, was rolly, very rolly - the kind of roll where you feel your bones lagging your body while lying in bed. We did not sleep much. The weather was still holding so we got up early the next morning to go to St. Lucia, about a 60 mile trip. We left at the break of dawn, sailed to St. Vincent, motored up the lee side of St. Vincent, then sailed the thirty mile crossing to St. Lucia. The St. Vincent / St. Lucia crossing is one of the roughest on the trip North. We had a perfect day for it. It was a bit bouncy for the first 5 miles, then the seas dropped and we sailed directly to the Pitons at St. Lucia (no tacks). We had planned to check in at Soufriere. But when we arrived, we found the moorings near t
he town full (you have to take a mooring) and the East winds had brought a distinct sulphurous odour to the area. We decided to keep going to Rodney Bay, about 15 miles up the coast. We reached the Bay about 5:00pm, just before sunset, dropped anchor at the back of the pack and had an early night. We were tired after traveling for 11 hours. The next morning we checked in and moved Vagus to the other side of the Bay, near Pigeon Island to get out of the roll. Now we are happily anchored just off a luxury Sandals resort - check them out on their web site. It looks like a great resort. We can even use their facilities for the day for $100US per person - I don't think so! Our anchor is firmly set and it is time for a little exploration.